The Other Italy Field Notes

Short notes from the places we plan trips to in Sicily, Puglia, Emilia-Romagna and Piedmont: what the food is really like, which towns reward a slower visit, and the planning mistakes worth avoiding. For the full picture, start with our Other Italy Planning Guide.

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Piedmont in October: Where to Base Yourself

Turin is a one-hour train from Milan and more interesting than most visitors expect.

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The White Truffle Rule That Changes How You Eat One

There's a rule about white truffles that changes how you think about eating one. They don't preserve.

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Turin, Italy's First Capital

Turin was Italy's first capital and looks the part: wide boulevards, arcaded sidewalks and a skyline anchored by the Mole Antonelliana.

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The Piedmont Mistake We See Most Often

People hear "Piedmont" and think wine region, then plan the trip the way they'd plan Napa: one home base, a rotation of tasting appointments, done in three or four days.

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What Piedmont Actually Is

Say Piedmont to most people and you get a blank look. Say white truffle, or Barolo, and something clicks.