The Other Italy Field Notes
Short notes from the places we plan trips to in Sicily, Puglia, Emilia-Romagna and Piedmont: what the food is really like, which towns reward a slower visit, and the planning mistakes worth avoiding. For the full picture, start with our Other Italy Planning Guide.
Why Bologna Eats the Way It Does
Bologna sits inside what the food world calls the Food Valley, with Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and true balsamic vinegar all within an hour's drive.
Balsamic Vinegar, the Slow Way
Somewhere in the hills above Modena, there's an attic full of barrels that have been quietly doing their job since before Italy was a country.
Bologna and Its Two Nicknames
Bologna carries two nicknames that explain most of what you need to know. La Dotta, the learned one, home to the oldest university in the Western world, founded in 1088.
The Emilia-Romagna Mistake We See Most Often
Most people treat Emilia-Romagna as a day trip from somewhere else, usually Florence, usually just Bologna, usually just long enough for one plate of tortellini and a train back.
What Emilia-Romagna Actually Is
Ask someone to name an Italian region, and Emilia-Romagna rarely comes up. Ask a chef, and it's often the first one they mention.