Pintxo Hopping in San Sebastián: An Insider's Guide
Katie & David at Gandaria
In San Sebastián, Spain, experiencing pintxos is a must. These aren't your average tapas; they're often more elaborate, bite-sized culinary creations artfully displayed on bar tops. Going for pintxos typically involves hopping from bar to bar, selecting a few tempting morsels at each stop, and pairing them with a local drink like txakoli (a slightly sparkling white wine) – it's a social and delicious way to savor the region's vibrant food culture.
Our favorite pintxo bars and what to eat at each:
La Viña- Ok, it’s strange to start with dessert, but the cheesecake at La Viña is out of this world. So good we had it for late-night dessert and breakfast the following morning! Cheesecakes are stacked everywhere in this tiny restaurant - they must go through hundreds a day. There is just one variety (plain) and what makes it amazing is that it’s lightly charred on the top and slightly underdone in the middle. Ordering note - one order contains two pieces.
Cheesecake at La Viña
Gandarias - This pintxos bar also has a restaurant, so it’s a great place to make a dinner reservation if you want a break from all the standing. Our favorite pintxos here were the solomillo, seared beef tenderloin sprinkled with crunchy salt flakes, and crab dip served in sea urchin.
Bar Borda Berri - Pigs ears, white asparagus and salt cod pili pili were tops here. Don’t be scared away by pigs ears - they were so tender and flavorful. White asparagus happened to be in season and was thick and silky. Finally salt cod pili pili is a staple of Basque cuisine and should not be missed.
Sea urchin stuffed with crab dip (plus some skewered gildas)
Tips for Visiting Pintxo Bars
Pintxo bars are generally open for lunch and dinner with a closing time in between (usually 3-5pm, but varies). Some are open all day, so definitely check the times on their website or Google listing.
The popular ones, including those listed above, do get quite crowded, but that’s part of the fun. Some have you line up and admit people in once space opens up. Oher bars are more of a free-for-all, you just belly your way up to the bar and wave to get a server’s attention.
Most bars have prepared pintxos that are beautifully displayed on the counter. For those you can just point to what you want. There are also prepared-to-order tapas listed on a menu.
Eat things outside of your comfort zone - you’ve nothing to lose since they are small portions and inexpensive. A good idea is to look around and see what locals are eating and try that same dish.
Don’t forget the drinks (it’s important to remain hydrated)! Typical drinks at pintxo bars are wine, beer and vermouth. For wine it’s usually either “vino tinto” or “vino blanco”, red wine and white wine, respectively. We recommend going with the house wine - it’s never let us down (and costs about $3/glass!). For white wine definitely try txakoli, a Basque speciality that is slightly sparkling, quite dry and low in alcohol.
For those techies out there, download the “Pintxos” app on iOS or Android which has recommendations from Michelin-star chefs of their favorite pintxos bars and their favorite bites. Plus there are photos of the recommended pintxos so they are easy to identify when you are at the bar trying to order.
